module specification

DV2F10 - Advanced Pattern Cutting and Garment Manufacture (2017/18)

Module specification Module approved to run in 2017/18, but may be subject to modification
Module title Advanced Pattern Cutting and Garment Manufacture
Module level Intermediate (05)
Credit rating for module 15
School The Sir John Cass School of Art, Architecture and Design (The Cass)
Assessment components
Type Weighting Qualifying mark Description
Coursework 50%   Patterns and costings
Coursework 50%   Samples and final garment
Running in 2017/18 No instances running in the year

Module summary

This module provides opportunities to develop greater understanding required to construct patterns using flat pattern cutting & modelling methods.  Students will explore more sophisticated manufacturing processes and carry out self-directed explorations.

Module aims

To achieve this module a student must:
1.   Pattern block construction
2.   Develop and extend pattern construction skills
3.   Produce toiles following a suitable sequence of processes and fitting techniques.
4.   Investigate and apply manufacturing techniques for more complex garments.
5.   Produce a garment finished to a high standard.

Syllabus

The following illustrates the range of possibilities that could be covered by this module.  It will introduce the principles of pattern drafting through block construction and pattern manipulation. Provides opportunities to develop the more complex understanding required to construct patterns from working drawings and design sketches.   To develop greater understanding of manufacturing processes to produce a garment of high quality.

1. Pattern Construction
Basic blocks: bodice, skirt, trousers, set in one-piece sleeve
Tools and equipment: for cutting (table, shears, notches, hole punch), for measuring (ruler, pattern set square, french curve, calculator) for marking (tracing wheel, H pencil, pattern paper and card) for holding (weights, pattern hooks)
Methods: Flat pattern cutting, modelling on the stand
Applications: Investigations and solving design problems in womenswear and menswear
Design solutions: These will vary according to the application but may include sleeve adaptations (dolman, kimono, batwing), openings (button stands, fly fronts), styling (yokes, pleats, asymmetric lines), silhouettes and fitting (jersey, stretch)

2.   Toiles
Appropriate weight of fabric for design.
Factors affecting finish: seam allowance, seam and dart alignment, sleeve setting.
Fitting: fitted, semi-fitted, loose, ease, adjusting darts and fullness, length, necklines, armholes, details.

3.   Manufacturing skills
Techniques: these will vary according to the garment designs.  More complex techniques and processes will be used such as fly fronts, collar and revere, cuffs, lining, topstitching, pleats.
The use of interlinings and trimmings.
Cloth: easy to handle, difficult to handle (e.g. stretch/elastomeric, leather and suede, pile fabrics.
Pressing techniques using industrial press and pressings aids.

4.   Garment Construction
Manufacturing sequence will vary according to the garment style. 
Lay plan: grain, economical use of fabric, matching fabric/pattern features (e.g. one-way naps, stripes).  Detailed costing sheet. 
Record work in progress with experimental tests and samples, sketches, photographs and notes.
Garment finished to a high standard using appropriate finishes, interfacings and pressing techniques.

Learning and teaching

This will include practical workshops, external visits, small group and individual tutorials.

Learning outcomes

On successful completion of this module students will be able to:

1.   Create a set of pattern blocks
a.    Select and use tools and equipment with due regard for safety.
b.    Apply understanding of standard sizing systems to produce an accurate set of blocks.

2.   Develop and expand understanding of pattern construction.
a.   Investigate the pattern requirements for a range of details in identified styles.
b.   Explore the potential of modelling on the stand to create a variety of shapes.
c.   Produce neat accurate patterns with smooth cut edges.

3.   Produce toiles for various areas of design.
a.   Experiment with fabric weight and techniques to create various shapes.
b.   Identify any necessary adjustments required for design and fit.

4.   Apply the most suitable processes to solve manufacturing problems
a    Select and apply suitable techniques for working with different cloth types.
b.   Identify and overcome technical problems to produce a well-finished garment.

5.   Assemble a garment using appropriate techniques and finishes.
a.   Produce an economical lay plan considering fabric type and detailed costing sheet.
b.   Record work in progress based on a logical order of assembly.
c.   Produce a garment which is accurate and of high quality.

Assessment strategy

Students undertake integrated projects, which may ask for several elements off work to be submitted. 

Bibliography

Aldrich, Winifred – Metric Pattern Cutting (Harper Collins, 4th edition 2004)
Aldrich, Winifred – Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear (BSP Professional Books 1990)
Aldrich, Winifred - Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting
Armstrong J – Pattern Making for Fashion Design (Prentice Hall, 4th edition)
Silberberg, Lily and Shoben, Martin – The Art of Dress Modelling (Butterworth Heinemann 1992)
Bray, Natalie - Dress Pattern Designing
Carr, Harold and Pomeroy John (1992) – Fashion Design and Product Development.
Ladbury A – The Sewing Book (Mitchell Beazley)
Reader's Digest - New Complete Guide to Sewing
Shoben, Martin M and Ward, Janet P – Pattern Cutting and Making Up – The Professional Approach. (Blackwell Science, 1994)